The "Little Finger" That Holds Everything Worth Finding
The Leelanau Peninsula is the northernmost "finger" of Michigan's mitten, a 28-mile-long landmass between Grand Traverse Bay and Lake Michigan that contains more per square mile of things worth seeing than almost anywhere else in the Midwest. Cherry orchards that bloom in May. Wineries that produce world-class Riesling. Sleeping Bear Dunes at its southern tip. The village of Leland with its historic fish town at the water's edge. Artisan studios tucked behind farm stands. The whole thing is traversable on two-lane roads at a pace that makes you want to stop every ten minutes.
Day One: The South — Empire, Glen Arbor, Sleeping Bear
Begin in Empire at the Sleeping Bear Dunes National Lakeshore visitor center. Get the lay of the land from the rangers, pick up a trail map, and drive the Pierce Stocking Scenic Drive for the overview. Stop at the Dune Climb overlook, then drive to Glen Arbor for lunch. Glen Arbor is tiny but has exceptional food — Art's Tavern for a classic burger, Art's Boutique for Leelanau-themed gifts. After lunch, hike the Crystal River to the Lake Michigan shore and watch the light change on the water in the late afternoon. Dinner back in Glen Arbor or the short drive to Leland.
Day Two: The Middle — Leland, Omena, Suttons Bay
Start in Leland at Fishtown — a collection of weathered fish shanties built over the Leland River in the 1880s, now housing galleries, smoked fish shops, and a commercial fishing operation that still brings in whitefish from Lake Michigan. The smoked fish is not optional. Drive north on M-204 to Omena — a village of 40 people with an 1858 Presbyterian church, a general store, and a winery. Continue to Northport for the afternoon and the short drive to the lighthouse at the tip of the peninsula. Return south on the east side of the peninsula through Suttons Bay for dinner — Hop Lot Brewing has excellent beer and wood-fired pizza in a barn setting.
Day Three: Wineries and Cherry Orchards
Dedicate the third day to the agricultural heart of the Leelanau. Start at Black Star Farms in Suttons Bay for morning coffee and a farm store browse. Drive north on M-22 stopping at Shady Lane Cellars, L. Mawby (Michigan's best sparkling wine), and Verterra Winery in Leland. The afternoon can be spent at a U-pick cherry orchard if timing aligns (late June through mid-July) or at Cedar's Pleva Meats for exceptional locally raised charcuterie. Return to Traverse City via the Leelanau Trail — a paved recreational path that connects Suttons Bay to Traverse City through farmland and forest.
Where to Stay
The Leland Lodge in Leland is the peninsula anchor — comfortable rooms, a good restaurant, and immediate access to Fishtown. Numerous vacation rentals and B&Bs scatter through the interior. South Manitou Island, accessible by ferry from Leland, offers primitive camping in a federally protected wilderness for those wanting to extend the adventure.
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